Common Sump Pump Issues and How to Fix Them

When your sump pump stops working, it’s tempting to call in a professional right away. But many of the causes of sump pump malfunction are easy to resolve without special training or equipment — so try these simple, inexpensive fixes first.

The Sump Pump Basin Is Full of Dirty Water

If your sump pump basin is full of water, period, something’s wrong with your sump pump system — either the float switch isn’t telling the pump to turn on, the check valve is broken (or missing), or the pump isn’t powerful enough to keep up with the amount of water flowing into the basin and you need a backup pump.

If you’re also noticing that the water in the basin is very dirty, it’s probably time to clean your sump pump system. The water that collects in the basin comes from outside, carrying with it dirt and debris that build up over time. To keep your sump pump system functioning properly, regular maintenance is required in the form of a thorough quarterly cleaning to remove this dirt and debris before it bogs down the system.

There’s Ice in the Discharge Pipe

The quick fix for a frozen discharge pipe is to use a portable heater to gently thaw the ice and get water flowing again. (Resist the temptation to thaw the ice more quickly by using a blowtorch or similar method. This could damage your pipe, making the problem worse.)

But the fact that water is freezing in the pipe at all suggests an installation problem that needs to be fixed. The pipe could be too narrow; not buried deep enough to protect it from frigid temperatures; or not angled enough to keep water flowing away from your house before it can freeze. 

Using a large enough PVC pipe and installing the discharge line so that it slopes down and away from the foundation will ensure the water moves quickly to where it needs to go. 

The Sump Pump Basin Is Overflowing

Even a well-designed, well-maintained sump pump system can be overwhelmed by unusually heavy rains or snowmelt, so an isolated overflow situation could just be bad luck. But if the basin overflows often, the cause needs to be identified to protect your home. Begin troubleshooting by looking for these issues:

  • A power outage could have caused the pump to be unavailable when the system needed it most; if that could have been the problem in this instance and your system doesn’t have a battery backup, consider installing one. 
  • A tripped breaker could also be the problem; if this is the case, flip the breaker back on and see what happens when the pump starts. Read our guide on how to troubleshoot a tripped breaker.
  • If the pump isn’t turning on automatically when the water level nears the top of the pump, the float switch may need replacing. 
  • The pump discharge line could be clogged or not draining properly. 
  • If the downspouts from your home’s gutters empty too close to the foundation, hundreds of gallons of water may be entering your sump pump system from your roof every time it rains. Here’s some changes you can make to direct water away from your foundation.
  • If your pump is running but water isn’t leaving the basin, the system could be air locked. There is no easy fix for this while your basin is full of water — you might need to call a plumber to remove the water at this point — but you can prevent air lock from ever occurring by installing a weep hole in the discharge line.

The Basin Contains Dark, Reddish Sludge

If there is dark reddish-brown sludge in the basin, you may have an overgrowth of iron bacteria, or iron ochre. These bacteria create a thick, slimy deposit in your sump pump system that can corrode pipes and clog equipment, and the longer the problem is left unaddressed, the more difficult the iron ochre is to remove. The solution to this problem is to clean your sump pump basin and use a product that inhibits iron ochre growth.

The Sump Pump Keeps Tripping the Breaker

Most sump pump problems are electrical in origin — and the cause can be an overburdened outlet, a dirty basin, a leaky pump casing, or even using an extension cord. All of those causes can trip the breaker when the pump runs. Start troubleshooting by reading our article on this topic, and remember to be extra-safe when working with your sump pump. Always unplug the pump before performing even simple, routine maintenance — water and electricity are a potentially lethal combination.

The Pump Is Always Running 

During periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, it’s not unusual for a sump pump to turn on frequently. But if your pump is running constantly — or almost constantly — there’s a problem. 

Causes fall into two general categories: problems with the sump pump system, like a clogged discharge pipe, a faulty switch, or a bad (or missing) check valve; and problems with the landscaping around the house, such as inverted grading or poor downspout placement, that cause water to constantly inundate the sump basin. 

Even if it seems like the pump is doing its job, remember that sump pumps aren’t meant to run all the time. Overworking your pump can burn it out, setting you up for catastrophic flooding in the event of a storm. If your sump pump is constantly running, troubleshoot the problem to head off messy, expensive flood.

The Pump Won’t Turn On

If your sump pump won’t turn on even though there is water in the basin, first determine whether the pump is getting power. Make sure the pump hasn’t gotten unplugged or turned off. 

Check the breaker box to see whether the pump has tripped the breaker; if this is the case, flip the breaker back on and see what happens. If the pump keeps tripping the breaker, there are several possible causes: an overloaded circuit or outlet, sediment buildup jamming or overworking the pump, an electrical short inside the unit, or even a low-grade extension cord.

NOTE: If your basement floor is flooded due to the pump malfunction, don’t attempt even a simple fix yourself — water and electricity are dangerous together.

If the system is receiving power but the pump still won’t turn on, you might have a bad float switch. Typically, a sump pump float switch turns on the pump automatically when the water in the basin rises. Though durable, these switches can eventually fail, and when they do it’s important to identify the problem and install a replacement float switch before catastrophic flooding occurs. Testing your system to see whether the switch is bad, and replacing the switch if it is, are simple tasks you can probably complete yourself.

The Pump Alarm Is Beeping

Sump pump alarms are designed to go off when the water level in the sump pump basin rises to 6 inches below the lid. Usually this means the pump is malfunctioning, water is rising too quickly for the pump to remove it, or the pump has lost power. Regardless, responding quickly when the sump pump alarm goes off is necessary to protect your home from water damage.

Strange Noises Are Coming From the Pipe

Sump pumps rarely operate silently, and older pumps are generally noisier than newer ones. Motor noise is common, as is a gurgling or slurping sound when the pump sucks the last of the water from the bottom of the basin (similar to sipping a drink through a straw). If you notice what seems like a lot of noise, however, consider these possible causes:

Ill-fitting or missing basin cover: Covering your sump pump basin with a plastic or foam lid will muffle noise from inside the basin. A good cover will also keep debris from falling into the basin and potentially damaging your pump, so it’s a good idea in general.

Water moving in discharge pipe: Sump pumps are designed to shut off when the basin is empty, but there is usually still water in the discharge pipe when this happens. Gravity will cause that water to drop from the discharge line back into the basin. This can cause gurgling or splashing sounds. Installing a check valve will stop the water from returning to the sump basin, thus silencing the noise.

Bad check valve: It’s not unusual for check valves to make noise when they operate. Often, they make a loud clapping or banging noise when they snap shut. With some check valve designs, this is normal and expected, but if the noise bothers you, or if your previously quiet check valve becomes noisier, consider investing in a swing or tilting-disk check valve. Often advertised as “silent” check valves, these make less noise than other models. 

Air lock: If you’re hearing a lot of shaking or vibration from your sump pump, or the pump is running and running without moving any water, the pump could be airlocked. This problem is easy to prevent by drilling a weep hole in the discharge pipe.