You wouldn’t have a sump pump system at all if you didn’t need to remove water from your basement. But sump pumps aren’t meant to run constantly — they’re supposed to empty the sump basin and shut off until the basin refills.
A pump that runs all the time will wear out more quickly and be more susceptible to mechanical failure or overheating, putting your home at risk of expensive, messy flooding. If your sump pump is running very frequently, or nonstop, this could be because the sump pump float switch is jammed or broken; the outdoor grading slopes toward the house; the downspouts from your roof gutters empty too close to the foundation; the discharge line is blocked; the check valve is broken (or you don’t have one installed); or your pump needs a backup.
Reason #1: Jammed or Broken Float Switch
The sump pump float switch is a mechanical float that detects when water in the basin has risen to a level that requires pumping. If the pump is running even when the sump basin is dry, your float switch might be jammed or broken — thus causing the pump to continue running even after the water’s been drained.
To fix this problem, make sure the switch is not pinned or tangled against the side of the basin or the pump itself, and that it’s able to move with the water level (if it’s a floating switch rather than a pressure switch). If the switch can move freely, and it’s not blocked or weighed down by dirt or debris, it might be broken and in need of replacement. This is a fairly easy project you can complete yourself.
Reason #2: Outdoor Grading Slopes Toward the House
If your sump pump is running very frequently because there’s always water in the basin, but you don’t live in an exceptionally rainy place (or it’s not a very rainy time of year), the problem might simply be that too much water is running into the basin from the ground.
This is likely because the yard, driveway, and/or walkways slope down toward the house, driving water toward the basement instead of away from it. The solution here is to regrade the landscaping so it drops away from the home, diverting water in some other direction.
Regrade Landscaping
Regrading is a simple but labor-intensive process that involves removing topsoil from the entire area, then shifting subsoil from high areas to low areas until the grade has been adjusted. A large grading project may require heavy equipment or a landscaping contractor.
Regrade landscaping away from the home so that the ground (or other ground-level surface) drops away from the foundation for at least the first 5–10 feet. This article offers advice for evaluating your property and achieving proper grading around your home, including tips for choosing the right soil and ensuring the ground level drops away from the house enough to resolve the problem.
Reason #3: Downspout Gutters Are Too Close to House
Downspout drains from your home’s gutters should direct rainwater well away from not only your sump pump but also your home’s foundation. If they don’t, that could be a reason your sump pump is running excessively when it rains — a 1,500-square-foot-roof can shed over 900 gallons (or 3400 litres) of water in a one-inch (25mm) rainstorm. That’s more than enough to overwhelm many sump pump systems.
Add Downspout Extensions
The simplest and most direct solution is to install downspout extensions that direct rainwater far out into the yard and well away from the foundation, toward a low-lying area, a dry spot, a ditch, or a storm drain. The available space and grade of the landscaping will determine the optimal length for the extension, but 4–8 feet is generally recommended.
Bury the Extension
The recommended downspout extension length of 4–8 feet can be awkward if the yard is narrow or houses are close together, or if the yard gets a lot of use. If that’s the case, consider burying the extension. This will achieve the same result as an extension that lies on top of the yard, while hiding the unsightly pipe.
If there is a ditch, drainage easement, or storm drain close to your house, you can bury the downspout extension in a position that directs the water toward the ditch or drain. See our article on installing a sump pump discharge line for more information.
Install a Pop-Up Emitter
A buried downspout extension can also be used to direct water to an area of the yard that’s a significant distance from the foundation, or at least lower than the home’s foundation. This can be a good way to deliver water to a garden or to areas of the lawn that are typically dry. If you want to hide the end of your buried downspout extension while protecting it from debris or animals that could clog it, install a pop-up emitter, a plastic cover that pops open to allow water out then drops closed to keep the pipe clear.
If a long downspout isn’t feasible on your property, there are several other options for diverting rainwater away from your home, such as a French drain, channel drain, catch basin, or dry creek bed.
French Drain
A French drain is a narrow, gravel-filled trench with a perforated PVC pipe down its center. Often used to handle excess surface water, a French drain can also be connected to your downspouts to carry water to a location well away from your home’s foundation.
Channel Drain
From the surface, a channel drain looks like a narrow metal grate running across a driveway or walkway. Under the grate lies a shallow, narrow trench cut through the pavement to capture water flowing across the surface and direct it safely away from the house.
Catch Basin
Usually located right under the downspout, close to the house, a catch basin is a plastic or metal container that catches water from the downspout and directs it away from the foundation via a pipe or pipes connected to the basin’s sides. A metal or plastic grate sits on top of the catch basin to keep out dirt, debris, and animals while allowing water to pass.
Dry Creek Bed
A dry creek bed looks like xeriscaping or a rock feature but is actually a channel for stormwater. Installed in a sunken area, over a catch basin, or along the edge of the property, a dry creek bed is made from rocks of varying sizes, from boulders to gravel, to create a place where stormwater from downspouts can safely drain away.
Set Up a Rain Barrel
Relatively simple and inexpensive to install, rain barrels capture rainwater for use in your garden, pond, lawn, or elsewhere in your landscaping, making them both economical and environmentally friendly. This article offers tips for building your own rain barrel system.
Note: Check with local authorities to make sure rain barrels are legal in your area; check this website for information about legality in U.S. states, and this Wikipedia page for information about Canada.
Reason #4: Discharge Line Is Blocked/Clogged
If there’s water in your sump basin but it’s not the rainy season, and it seems like your pump isn’t making much progress removing the water, you might have a clogged discharge line. Sump pump basins inevitably collect dirt and debris, so it’s not uncommon for the discharge line to become clogged.
If you have checked the float switch and check valve, and both are functioning properly, and it hasn’t been raining heavily enough to account for the constantly running sump pump, try clearing the discharge line with a plumbing snake or straightened-out wire clothes hanger. Do not pour drain cleaner into the sump pump to remove clogs, as this may damage your pump (and won’t clear the clog anyway).
Reason #5: Check Valve Is Missing or Installed Incorrectly
If your sump pump system doesn’t have a check valve — or if your check valve is broken or incorrectly installed — gravity will drive water from the discharge pipe right back into the sump basin. Your pump will basically have to keep pumping the same water back out, and this can cause the pump to run too often (or constantly). Read our article on sump pump check valves to find out how to purchase and install this vital component in any sump pump system.
Reason #6: Your Pump Needs Backup
Sometimes sump pumps run constantly because they simply can’t keep up with the flow of water into the basin. If you’ve ruled out other causes, this could be the problem in your home — especially if you’re experiencing unusually wet conditions. It might be time to install a secondary pump or a battery backup.
Installing a secondary pump will give the primary pump some assistance under heavy flooding conditions, such as an exceptionally rainy or wet season. This should help reduce the running time for the primary pump and thus prevent burnout.
A battery backup pump will add protection to your home in the event that your primary pump eventually fails or is disabled by a power outage (the most common cause of pump failure).